Well, it is a new year and I hope you and yours will be happy!!!
Well, it is a new year and I hope you and yours will be happy!!!
After I upgraded my “new” Lenovo X140e to Windows 10 from Windows 8.1+”classic shell”(to give it the look and feel of Windows 7) I discovered the scrolling on the mouse pad was “backward” to what I was used to.
For instance, when I use two fingers to go “down” the mouse pad I expect the screen to roll down the page. It wasn’t, it was moving the screen in the same direction I dragged my fingers. So if I drag my fingers down, the screen rolls “up” the page. While this sounds counter-intuitive according to my Chromebook (Aus C-300) this is called “Australian” scrolling. In the Windows 10 Mouse settings menu, they call it “reverse scrolling.” Somehow my “default” got set for reverse scrolling.
What if you want your Windows 10 machine to return to “regular” scrolling? There is a fix. I searched the internet… and it appears that if you dig far enough down into the mouse settings you can change the 2 finger behavior to “normal”.
First, you use the Cortana search box to find “mouse settings” and it offers you “Mouse and touchpad.”
Second, you click on the “additional mouse options.”
Third, you click on the “enable touchpad” settings button.
Fourth, you click on the scrolling listing on the “tree.”
Fifth, you select the “two finger scrolling”.
Sixth, you make sure the “reverse scrolling” box is un-checked.
Then start clicking, “apply” and “ok” until all the menus are closed. You should then discover that Windows 10 now scrolls like previous versions. eg. If you move you two fingers down the mouse pad, the screen scrolls down, just like it does when you use a mouse.
The actual label is “Netgear N900 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router.” I got mine from Discount Electronics for $15 which is why I jumped on it like a hungry mouser (cat). I needed a better wifi router for my son so I ordered 2.
What’s not to like? This router has both the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands with all those b/g/n and a/c stuff. The 5 GHz band is good for shorter ranged high volume data connections. This router was reviewed by other sources I trust to have rock solid connections out to 300 feet. It produces a 10-15% stronger signal (according to the Wifi scanner app on my cell phone) at the same location (my master bedroom) than my Belkin Wireless G router does. This is the same bedroom my Arris TG862g won’t even reach.
So far I have only been using it as an Acess Point off my Arris TG862g. I am waiting on a cable modem with telephone jack(s) to arrive. When that does, I will experiment with moving my local land line onto the internet while using the Netgear N900 to take care of all my internet connectivity needs. I will also probably sell the Arris and the Linksys cable modem. I will post about this once I have something more to report.
If you decide to set up your Netgear N900 as an Access Point I will make one recommendation. The menu you use to activate the AP suggests NOT using a fixed IP address. I tried that. The AP worked but I couldn’t access it anymore because I couldn’t tell what it’s IP address was. You normally access an AP by putting in its IP address (say 192.168.1.230) in your browser. If you decide to use a fixed IP address you should make sure your DHCP server range excludes that address. If there is no way to specifically exclude an address simply lower the address range that the DCHP will serve and make the fixed address an IP number higher than that.
Since I have about 7 computers, a cell phone, an Android tablet and a Chromebook laying around here it’s not like I don’t have connectivity needs. 3 of these computers are always on, running BIONIC applications, so I really need a 24/7 level of support.
I have offered above in the “reviewed/sources” links for all the details about how good this Netgear N900 is so I won’t recapitulate those details here. Thanks for reading.
The Arris TG862g is a Residential Gateway providing an “all in one” approach to providing internet access and telephone service through your cable TV coax. It has the cable modem, the router (with NAT and a Firewall), 4 RJ-45 ports and WiFi connectivity at the N level (2.4 GHz, b/g/n).
The Pro’s include all the features I listed above. The Gui interface is not too complicated for anyone who has setup a couple of routers over the years. And is approachable by anyone who is willing to follow the installation guide(s) available on the internet. I like James Causian’s review of this modem and related topics.
So far this looks like a pretty good deal. If you can find a used version that works you can get it for near $50 plus the cost (probably) of replacing the battery backup with another battery.
The Cons are large enough to be off-putting and irritating. They are not large enough to say this is a completely unsuitable buy.
So in conclusion, this is not the residential gateway I am likely to get and/or keep. Why? Because I managed to luck into a Netgear N900 router/wifi for $15 from Discount Electronics. It listed near $200 retail about 3 years ago. I will either use the N900 with a bridged Arris TG862g or a Linksys CM3008 that I have previously mentioned or with a not yet arrived Arris cable modem with telephone jacks. I will review the Netgear N900 later.
I was already aware when I opted to switch my internet from AT&T to cable that I would need to buy my own cable modem. So far I am the “proud” owner of a Linksys CM3008 and an Arris TG862g. The Arris is a “telephone ready” residential gateway and the Linksys is a plain bread and butter cable modem with no router or wifi or anything.
Since I own an old basic router with wifi (Belkin Wireless G) that has worked as both a router and as an Access Point I was able to immediately get things setup. It worked fine. If my basic goal was simply to replace my internet with a cheaper choice that served my needs this would do it. But wait! There’s more (as I said in another post).
I wanted to see if I could lower my landline cost too. I need to note that my wife is comfortable only with a landline. She is afraid she would lose a cell phone. One possibility to is to move to a VOIP solution. It needs to integrate with the house phone system so that it transparently works just like AT&T.
Enter, the “telephone ready” cable modem or residential gateway. The distinction appears to be exactly that . A “telephone ready” cable modem still will need a router to provide internet service to multiple internet devices. It can be plugged directly into a phone jack and will provide phone service to the rest of the house. I have one of these on order because of the results I got from using an Arris TG862g.
I am going to review how good or bad the Arris TG862g is in another post. I would not be exploring yet more products if it had been very good.
A couple of months ago I noticed that AT&T was charging me close to ~$100/month (USD) for a voice line and ADSL that had less than 1 MB/sec upload speed. I wondered if I could reduce my costs?
First I investigated simply moving to a cheaper ADSL plan. The best AT&T could do would reduce my cost about $12/mo while dropping the internet to their slowest speed. And I still wouldn’t have 1 MB/sec upload speed. In fact, AT&T doesn’t offer a 1 MB/sec upload speed. This could be an issue if I wanted to apply for a “work from home” customer service or technical support job. All of them require at least a 1 MB/sec upload speed.
Fortunately, the local cable network company offers service in my area. They were also offering a sale on a 10 MB down, 1 MB up plan. $15/mo. Later I learned that this plan is usually $30/mo. So in a year I expect the price to rise.
So after paying an installation fee and buying a couple of cable modems I now have perfectly good internet for less. I will note, I am not a big video or movie download person so this basic internet is fine for me.
To recap. 1) I am now paying about $16/mo for the internet. 2) My phone bill went from nearly $100 down to about $55 this month. But wait! There’s more. 🙂 That will have to wait for the next article.
On Saturday, November 26, I received a new-to-me Ultrabook. I subscribe to e-mails from Discount Electronics and they were offering this ~ $900 PC for $144 plus S/H. Since it was an “Ultrabook” I jumped on it. I already own an HP’s 3105mHP 3105m Netbook. This new machine is lighter and faster.
But there is one catch. It is shipping with Windows 8.1. Most of you who have suffered through the transition from Windows 7 to Windows 8 to 8.1 to Windows 10, remember the “Metro” interface and how the “workflow” so to speak of Windows 8.1 was significantly different from Windows 7. Ouch.
I gritted my teeth and found a Youtube tutorial video on how to get around in Windows 8.1. I wasn’t impressed. So I googled (everyone’s friend 🙂 something like “how to make windows 8.1 look like windows 7.” Ask and you shall receive. I found this page and downloaded the classic shell. After installing it and clicking on a couple of choices about how I wanted my Ultrabook to look like as a Windows 7 machine I had it back. The workflow, the menus, (I kept the new file manager though) and every other thing I was used to.
So I am happy as a clam (gorilla? chimpanzee?) Whatever. 🙂